Stripping

1.- Mask off and protect all surfaces not being refinished.

Counter tops, walls, floor and etc. (see previous page- Most Important)

2.- Remove the cabinet doors and drawers. Catalogue all hardware, doors

and drawers. Example: door #1 has two hinges, these would be labeled

1t (top) and 1b (bottom). This is very important.  Over time houses settle

and cabinets sag and go out of square. If you don’t put the exact hinge

back in the exact spot it was in originally, then you could face a long day

of adjusting and/or swapping around hinges to get the doors to hang

properly.  I had this experience once many years ago. It was very frustrating.

3.-  Mask off the interior of the cabinets. Even if they’re going to be painted

afterwards there’s no sense in trashing them out and creating more work

for yourself.

4.- Strip off  the finish with a chemical stripper using a scraper and steel wool.

5.- Scrub with steel wool and lacquer thinner.

Note- steps 4 and 5 can be messy. This calls for extra protection. Here’s what I do:

The standard protection for counter tops and floors is a layer of plastic covered

with one or two layers of red construction paper. On top of this I place newspapers

to catch the runoff from the stripper and lacquer thinner. When the newspapers

become saturated I change them out with clean ones. Then, when these two steps

are completed I am left with clean and dry masking to continue the job.

6.- Sand. And sand. And sand. And then sand some more.

7.- The doors and drawers are done on-site (in the garage, perhaps, but never inside the

house) or back at the shop.

That concludes the stripping.

Advertisements